Hat-trimming machine.



No. 757,542. PATBNTED APR. 19, 1904,

' P. G. GRAW.

HAT TRIMMING MACHINE.

Y APPLIGATION Hun AUG. 1o, 190s. No MODEL. n a sums-sum -1.

PATBNTBD KBB; '19,11904." i

No. 757,542. L

i F.U. GRAW, HAT TRIMMING MACHINE.

APPLIQATIoN FILED AUG, 1n, 1903.

' a SHEETS-SHEET 2.

N0 MDDBL.

' l NESSES. i lwf'faNToR,4 ffm. Q Wn W TH: foams persas co, momuwu,wmamu'rnm u, c.

PATENTE) APR, "19j-1904..

Armlehnen Hmm mfg. 1o. 1903.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

N0 MODEL WITNESSES.

1HE 'mams Farms co. mom-Lnmmwnsammcu, u. c,

Patented April 19, 1904.

PATENT OFrIcE.V

FRANKG. GRAW, OF SOUTH NORWALK, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TOIVILLIAM N. GRAW,

N'EGTIGUT.

OF SOUTH NORWALK, GON- HAT-TRIMMING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming. part of Letters Patent No. 757,542, dated April19, 1904. Application iled August 10, 1903. 'Serial No. 168,979. (Nomodel.)

To all vwhom. it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK G. GRAW, a citizen of the United States,residing at South Norwalk, county Yof Fairfield, State of Gonnecticut,have invented a new and useful Hat-V Trimming Machine, of which thefollowing is a specification.

This invention relates to certain improve.- ments in `machines forperforming the operation variously 'known as trimmingg paring, or"planing the brims of curled hats It is one' of the objects ofthisinvention to produce an automatic machine for this'purpose that willperform the operation while the hatsare still upon the matrices orblocks upon which they are curled, as in my former patent,`No. 707,392,dated Augustl), 1902.

A further object of the invention is to. produce a machine of thecharacter described that shall be self-adjusting to heights of curl andsizes'of hat, shall be provided with a simple and convenient adjustmentfor determining the widths of curls, so called-that is, the width of thecurl at the sides of the brimand with another equally simple adjustmentfor determining the styles of the curlsf so called-that is, the widthsof the curls at the four quarters of the brim. Y

Afurther object of the invention is to simplify, cheapen, andtogenerally improve the construction and mode of operation of the entiremachine.

i/Vith these and other objects in view the invention consists in certainconstructions and in certain parts, improvements, and combinations,which will be hereinafter described and then specifically pointed out inthe claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification,Figure 1 in an elevation of the machine complete, the cutter being shownas operating at one side of a 'brim ter shown as operating at one end ofa brim; I Fig. 3, a plan view, the hat-holder and hat be- -tached; andFig. 8 comprises botha sectional elevation and a sectional plan view,the'latter being on the line 8 8 of the former, illustrating a form ofcutter-carrier in which the cutter is carried by aspringinstead ofbeingrig-A vidly secured to the carrier.

10 denotes the framework as a whole, which may be of the ordinary or anypreferred construction.

Power is applied to drive the machine by Vmeans of a belt (not shown)passing over a belt-pulley 11, running loose on a shaft 12, journaled inthe framework and carrying a bevel-pinion 13, an eccentric disk 14, anda crank 15.` .The belt-pulley is connected to and disconnected from theshaft by means of a clutch 16. operated by means of a lever 17 in thepresent instance a bell-crank lever,

pivoted, as at 18, to a bracket 19, the freev end of which rests upon atreadle or foot-lever 20, the parts being shown as arranged so that byplacing the `foot on the treadle and` pressing the front end 'down theclutch-lever is operated to connect the belt-pulley with the i shaft.

. 211denotes acurled hat on the matrix 22, on which it has been curled,which is secured to a carrying-shaft 23 by means of ani eXpansion-holder24, which may be of any ordinary or preferred construction. TheY lowerend of the carrying-shaft is provided with a bevel gear-wheel 25, whichmeshes with` bevel-pinion 13 and is journaledin a bearing 26 on theframework. Above the bearing is a universal joint 27 to permit thenecessary movement of the upper end of the shaftY which carries the hatswhile being operated on. The upper bearing of the carrying-shaft is in ablock 28, which is adapted to slide freely in a slot 29 in theframework. The brim of a hat While being operated upon is retained inengagement with'a bearing-rod 30, presently to be described, and whichis rigidly but adjustably secured to the framework by means of fa spring31, which bears against an oval plate 32, carried by shaft 23. Theperipheral configuration of this plate corresponds substan- .tially Withthe ordinary oval of a hat-brim,

'- rigidly secured to a rock-shaft33, which is journaled in theframework and is provided with an arm 34, which extends'convenientlycontiguous to the framework and is provided at its'free end with'alocking-button 35, which is adapted to engage a lug 75 on the frameworkto lock the shaft 'and the spring in the operative position.V In'removing a hat from the ca-rrying-shaft or placing a hat thereon lthelocking-button is oscillated to disengage the arm and-rock-shaft andpermit the spring to swing .backward out of theway without pressure onthe oval plate. As soon as a new hat has been secured .to thevcarrying-shaft vit is moved into position to be operated upon. Arm 34is swung downward, as in Fig. 1, and is locked there by turning thelocking-button into engagement with the lug, the spring a'cting to pressthe outer edge of the brim against the bearing-rod.

36 denotes the cutter-carrier; 37, the 'cutterarm, which is rigidlysecured thereto, and 38 the cutter, which in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 is shownas rigidly secured tothe cutter-arm, as by a set-screw 39. In Fig. 8 Ihave illustrated a modification in which theJ cutter is secured inthe-same manner to a block 40, which is rigidly secured to the arms 41of a spring 42, which is itselfv pivoted, as at 76, to the rear end ofthe 'cutter-arm, the Atension of the spring being adjusted by aset-screw 77. In both forms the cutter-arm is provided with a slot 43,through which bearing-rod 30 passes freely. The cutter-carrier -isitself` carried by a` cross-head 44, adapted to reciprocatein a slot 45in the top of the-framework. -The cutter carrier'in the present instanceis shown as a round rod, although its shape is immaterial so far as theprincipleofthe in- Vention is concerned and 'is adapted'to reciprocatein a vertical openii1g46 in the crosshead. The cutter-arm reciprocatesin a vertical slot 47 in the cross-head which leads'into the opening.When not invuse orwhen removing a trimmed hat and placing another inpositionto be operated upon, thecutter-carrier is lifted up, so that thecutter-arm is free from slot 47 and also from the bearing-rod,

which normally passes through slot 43in the cutter-arm, afterl which thecutter-carrier is given a quarter-turn, more or less, backward, so thatthe cutter-arm will rest upon the top of vthe cross-head, as in dottedlines in Fig. 3, and vbe wholly out of the way. As soon as another' hathas been placed on the expansionholder in position to be operated uponthe cutter-carrier is swung around. so that the cutter-arm willregistery with slot' 47 and is thenallowed to'drop down to place, as inFigs. 1 and 2. It will -be noted that in use the eutter-arm rests uponthe top of the curl and rises and falls freely in accordance with theriseand fall of the curl, it being wholly immaterial so far as theoperation of the machine is concerned whether the curls are high, low,or medium, and changes may be made from one tothe other withoutmakingany changesA whatever in the adjustment of the machine. vIt will benoted, furthermore, that in use the outer edge of the curl is retainedconstantly in engagement with the bearingrod, it being therefore whollyimmaterial so far as the operation of the machine is concerned whetherthe hats are large or small or of medium size or how often changes aremade in the sizesv of the hats being operated upon, as no changeswhatever are required in the adjustment of the machine. The pathtraveledby the cutter when the machine is in operation whereby both thewidth and the style of the curls is determined is regulated in themanner I willnow explain. Y j

48 denotes an operating-lever-in form an angle-lever-one end of which ispivoted to the'cros's-head, as at 49. The other end of theoperating-lever is adapted to slide. freely through a block 50, which isitself pivoted to the upper end of a slide'51, adapted to reciprocate inA guides 52 on -the framework. This slide is operated'by means of a link53, one end of which is pivoted to crank 15 and the other to theslide,'as at 54. @An important feature of this operating-lever is thatit is provided with a variable or shifting fulcrum--in the presentinstance a block 55- through which the lever slides freely and which ispivoted to a slide 56, adapted toreciprocate in a guide 57 on theframework. I have shown the block' as pivoted, as at 60, between arms.58, extending from the slide, although it will of course be understoodthat the special details of construction and arrangement are not of theessence-of the invention. 61 denotes an adjustable eccentric-rod, thethe upper end of which is pivoted tov slide 56. This eccentric-rodisshown as made telescopic, one part sliding within the other, and aslocked in position after adjustment by a set-screw 62 in a collar 63 atthe upper end of the tubular portion of the rod. Attached toA the lowerend of the eccentric-rod is an ec 'centric-strap 64, which incloseseccentric disk IOO as lying in agroove 65 in the periphery of the disk.

The adjustment for different widths of curls-that is, width of curls atthe sides of `the brims-is effected by means of the setscrew 62. Thisadjustment is made when the crank is up, as in Fig. V1, as at that timethe hat is in position for the cutter to operate upon the side of thecurl. When the parts are in this position, set-screw 62 is loosened andslide 56 is moved up or down, as may be required, the operating-leversliding freely at all times through blocks 50 and 55 and one part of theeccentric-rod sliding within the other. If the eccentric-rod isshortened and slide 56 moved downward, the fulcrum of theoperating-lever will be' lowered, thereby increasing the throw of thecross-head, and a wider curl will result, as the cutter will be movedfarther toward the left as seen in Fig. 1 at the sides of the curl. Ifthe eccentricrod is lengthened,the fulcrum of the operatinglever israised, thereby decreasing the throw of the cross-head, and arnarrowercurl will result. For convenience in making this ad- Y justment wherethewidth of. curl required is known I provide a scale 73 on the top ofthe framework (see Fig. 3) and a corresponding point 7 t on thecross-head. The scale may in! practice be graduated to sixteenths of aninch.

quired, until the cutter is in position to trimv to the desired width ofcurl at' the sides of the brim without regard to the scale. Therule is,in brief, to shorten the eccentric-rod, there-l by increasing the throwof the cross-head when wider curls are required, and to lengthen theeccentric-rod, thereby decreasing the throw of the cross-head whennarrower curls are required, the adjustment being always made when thecrank is up.'

The operation of the eccentric disk isa vitally-im portant part of thepresent invention, as its adjustment varies the position of the ifulcrum of the operating-lever and determines what I have termed thestyle ofthe curlthat is, the width of theicurl at the four quarters asdistinguished from its width at the sides. In order to avoid thepossibility of confusion, I will again explain that the term width asapplied to the curl of a hat-brim in this specication means the width ofthe curl at the sides of the brim, and the term style as applied to thecurl of a hat-brim has reference to the width of the curl at thequarters of the brim. A with a central transverse slot 66, which re- Thedisk is shown as providedceivesY the attenedportion 67 of a hub 68,"which -is rigidly secured to shaft 12. Upon the face of the disk Iprovide a scale 69, which .may for convenience be a double scale andmaybe graduated, for example, from 1 to 7o 20, each numeralcorresponding Vto an arbitrary style of curl. For example, the nu-4merel 10 maycorrespond to a medium style of curl-that is, a curl ofmedium widthas, for example, three-eighths of an inch at the 7 5quarters. Thenumerals -above 10 in the arrangement of scale illustratedcorrespond to varying styles of curls all having relatively wide or fullquarters, the style having the extreme widest quarters of all beingdesignated 8c bythe numeral 20. The'numerals below 10 in thearrangementV of'scale illustrated correspond to different arbitrarystyles of curls each of which is of less than medium width at thequarters, thestyle having the extreme 8 5 understood from the above thatthe eccentricity'of disklt relative to shaft 12 determines thevariationof the fulcrum of the operating-lever, and consequently thestyle of l the curl. To produce what is termed a medium, style-that is,curls having avmedium roc width at the quarters-no variation of thefulcrum of the operating-lever is required, and consequently noeccentricity whatever of the disk, said disk being set concentric withthe shaft, to effect which adjustment the nut is fc5 loosened and thedisk moved in either direction on the shaft until points 71 registerwith the numeral 10 in the scale. The changes in style may be made injust as small fractions j of an' inch as may be necessary to meet the11o requirements of the trade, it being understood that each numeral inthe scale corresponds to an arbitrarily-fixed style of curl. If thedesired style calls for relatively narrow quarters, thenut is loosened,and if the crank is down, as in Fig. 2, the disk is moved up untilpoints 71 register with the numerals in the scale representing thedesired Ystyle of curl. If wider orfuller quarters are desired,

the disk is moved in the oppositeA direction-v r zo that is, down if thecrank is down. It is Wholly unnecessary, however, lto vplace the crankin any` special position for the purpose of making this adjustment, Withthe arrangement of scale illustrated in the'drawings if I2 wider orfuller quarters are required the disk is moved in the direction of thecrank. If narrower quarters are required, it is moved in the oppositedirection. Pinion 13 and gearwheel 25 bear the relation to each other ofone 13.0

The end of part 9o the style of the curl. As already stated, when thedisk is .set concentrically on the yshaft there will be no variationofthe fulcrum of the operating-lever, and the curl will be trimmed withmedium quarters without regard to the width-of the curl... Suppose nowthat without change in the width of the curl fuller quarters laredesired. .The operator loosens nut 72 and moves the eccentric disk inthe direction of the crank so that points 71 register with numerals inthe scale above 10. Themechanical effect of setting disk 14eccentricallyon the shaft is to cause a variation in the fulcrum of theoperati ng-lever-- that is,1 a movement of said fulcrumin each directionduring each rotation of the shaft. When the eccentric .disk is .set tolproduce fuller quarters,` slide 56, upon which the operating-lever isfulcrumecLmoves upward with the .crank and slide 51, which actuates theoperating-lever. This adjustment is effective at the quarters of thePcurl only, for the, reason thatwhile the fulcrum of the operating-leveris at the same position as beforeat the sides of the curl owing to theadjustment of. the eccentric disk the variable fulcrum will. be lowerthan before at the quarters and will consequently increase the throw ofthe crosshead while each of the quartersfis being operated upon by thecutter. In Fig. 1 Ihave illustrated the opposite adjustment-of theeccenthan medium quarters. `With this adjustment slide 56 will movedownward whilethe crank and slidel are moving upward, theresult beingthat at the,- quarters the ,variable fulcrum of thev operating-leverwill be higher than before, and consequently the throw of the`cross-head will be lessened when the quarters are .being operatedupon., In Fig. 2 I have illustrated a position of the parts when the endof a curl is being. trimmed. This position is ordinarily the same, the,brim being trimmed to a one-sixteenth curl at, the ends. Should a widercurl, however, be required at the ends. which is unusual, it can beobtained by moving bearing-rod 30A toward theright as seen in Fig. 2. Todo this, the operator simply loosens the nut 78, by-.which it is lockedin place, adjusts the bearing-rod as required, and tightensup the nutagain.` It should be noted that thegoperating-lever is so shaped that atthe instant either end of a curl. is being trimmed :the portion, of saidlever at Which "claim-- l the fulcrum is located will lie parallel withslide 56 and the cross-head will lie at its normal, position. l

The operation of the machine as a Whole has already beenso fullydescribed as to hardly require further explanation. In placing hatsonvthe machine or removing them therefrom the cutter-carrier is liftedand the cutter-arm and cutter turned .backward out of the way andlocking-button 35 is turned backward to 4release arm .34- and the springwhich bears against the oval plate. The operator then yloosens theexpansion-holderand removes the matrix andtrimrned hat, from themachine.

vAnother matrix with an untrimmed-hat thereon may then be attached tothecarrying- -shaft by means of the expansion-holder. Sup- Iposing ofcourse that the two adjustments for width and style of brimhave beenmade, the operator simply drops thecutter-carrier to place, turnsthelocking-button into position to cause spring 31 to bear against theovalplate, and Vthen places hisv foot on the treadle, which causesthe clutchto connect the driving-pulley with shaft 12.

jHaving .thus described my invention, ,I

,. l.1. In--a machine ofthe character described the combination withmeans fory rotating a 'curled hat and means for retaining the-.hat inposition to be operated upon, of a verticallymovable cutter-arm adaptedto rest upon the .top of the curl, and. means forautomatically movingthehat-- laterally toward and fromthe icutter.

vthe hat laterally toward and'from the cutter. tricdisk-that is, anadjustment to trimless 3.' In a machine .of the character described thecombinationwith a matrix andra shaft by lwhich it is carried, .ofacutter, a verticallymovable cutter-arm by which it is carried and whichis adaptedv to restupon the. top of .the

-curl vof a hat on the matrix'and a ybearing-rod which is engaged by theouter edge'of .the

brim of. -a hat on the matrix.

4. In a machine of the character. described the combination with amatrix and a shaft by ,the combination withga matrix, .ashaft by whichit is carried and an oval plate secured to said shaft with its longdiameter at right angles to the long diameter of the matrix, of acutter, an arm` by which itis carried and `which is adapted to rest uponthe top of the IOO IOS

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curl of a hat on the matrix,V a` bearing-rod and the combination with amatrix, a shaft by which it is carried and an oval plate secured to saidshaft. with its long diameter at right angles to the long diameter ofthe matrix, of a cutter, an arm by which it is carried and which v isadapted to rest upon the top of a curl of a hat on the matrix, abearing-rod, a spring engaging the oval plate, a rock-shaft by which itiscarried and means for locking the rockshaft with the spring inoperative position, whereby the pressure of the edge of a `hatbrim onthe bearing-rod is equalized 'and the action of the spring may beentirely relieved. 7 In a machine of the character described thecombination with a matrix, a shaft by which it is carried and a cutter,'of an adjustable bearing-rod and means for retaining the edge of thebrim of a hat on the matrix in engagement with said bearing-rod.

8. In a machine of the character described l the combination with amatrix and ashaft by which it is carried, of averticallymovablecutter-carrier having an arm to which the cutter is attached and whichis adapted to rest on the brim of a hat on the matrix, means forautomatically moving thehat laterally relatively to the cutter, and areciprocating cross-head which carries the cutter-carrier.

9. In a machine of the character described the combination witha/rotating hat-holder and means foi` retaininga hat thereon in positionto be operated upon, of a reciprocating crosshead, a cutter anda carriertherefor which is vertically movable in the cross head, and means forautomatically moving the hat laterally relatively to the cutter.

10. In a machine of the character described ing a slot 29 and a blockadapted to move in said slot, of a matrix, a universally-jointed shaftby which it is carried, said shaft being journaled in the block andcarrying an oval plate at right angles to the matrix, a bearing-rod anda spring engaging the oval platel whereby the edge of the brim of a haton` the matrix 'is retained in engagement with the bearing-rod.

- 12. In a machine of the character described the combination with amatrix and a shaft by which. it isp carried, of a bearing-rod, means forretaining the edge of the brim of a hat on the matrix in engagement withthe bearingl rod, a cutter, a cutter-arm therefor which is provided witha slot throughwhich the bearing-rod passes and a vertically-movablecutterc arrierto which the cutter-arm is secured.

13. In amachine of the character described the combination with a matrixand a shaft by which 1t is carried, of a bearing-rod, means for matrixin engagement with "the bearing-rod, a cutter, a cutter-arm thereforwhich' is provided with a slot through which the bearingrod passes, acutter-carrier to which the cutterarm is secured and a cross-head havingan openf ing and slot to receive the cutter-carrier and cutter-arm, sothat the cutter-carrier maybe lifted and the cutter-arm raised above.-the bearing-rod and allowedto rest on the top of the cross-head toretain the cutter out of operative position. n

14. 'In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and means for retaining a hat thereon in position to beoperated upon, of a reciprocating cross-head, a vertically-movablecutter carried thereby, means `for'automatically moving the hatlatretaining the. edge of the brim of a hat on the y erally relativelyto the cutter, and means forA adjusting the throw of the cross-head whenthe sides of abrim are in position-to be operated upon, whereby thewidth of the curl is determined. ,y

15. Ina machine of the character described the combination withahat-holder and means j for retaining a hat thereon in position to be loperated upon, cfa reciprocating 'cross-head,

a vertically-movable cutter carried thereby,

'means' for automatically moving the hat laterally relatively tothecutter, and means for ,adjusting the throw of the cross-head when thequarters of a brim areV in position to be operated upon,` whereby thestyle of the curl f is determined.

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16. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating angle-leverpivoted thereto, a slide 56 on which the operating-lever has itsfulcrum, said fulcrum shifting as the slide moves up and down, and aslide 51 with which the opposite end of the operating-lever has Vasliding connection.

17; In a machine ofthecharacter described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, anloperating angle-leverpivoted thereto, a slide 56 with which the operating-lever has slidingconnection, said sliding connection serving as' the fulcru'm of thelever, a slide 51 anda block pivotedto said IIO ing connection, arotating disk, a strap in'- closing said disk andan' adjustable rodconnectingsaid strap with slide 56 whereby said slidemay be raised orlowered thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever, changing thethrow of the cross-head and determining the width of the curl of ahat-brim at the sides.

19. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head,l an operating-lever pivotedthereto, a slide 56 on which the operatinglever has its fulcrum, saidfulcrum varying with the vmovement of the slide, a slide 51 with whichthe opposite end of the lever has sliding connection, a rotating disk,means for adjusting said disk eccentrically and a strap and .rodconnecting 'said Vdisk with' slide 56,

- whereby said slide may be raised or lowered thereby varying thefulcrum of the operatinglever at the periods of time when the quartersof a hat-brim are in position to be acted onv by the cutter. 1

20. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivotedthereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has slidingconnection, said slide 56 serving as the fulcrum of the lever and saidfulcrum shifting with the movements of the slide and means for adjustingsaid slide without shifting of the fulcrum'when it is desired to changethe width of a curl at the sides without change at the quarters.

21. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivot-- edthereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the operating-lever has slidingconnection, said slide 56 serving as a fulcrum for the lever and saidfulcrum shifting with the movements of the slide and means for adjustingthe movements of the slide, whereby the fulcrum of the operating-leveris shifted and the throw of the cross-head regulated when the quartersof va hat-brim are in position to be operated upon. 22. In a machineofthe character, described the combination with a hat-holder and acutter, of a cross-head. an operating-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51and 56 with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide56 serving as a fulcrum for the lever and said fulcrum shifting withthemovements of the slide, shaft 12, a disk on said shaft, means foradjusting said disk eccentrically thereto in either direction and astrap and rod connecting said disk with slide 56, whereby said slide maybe caused to move either'with or in reverse to slide 51 thereby varyingthe position of the fulcrnm, substantially as shown, for the purposespecified.

23. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cut-l ter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivotedthereto, slides 51 and 56 with which the oplocking'the disk at anydesired eccentricity to the shaft and a strap and rodconnecting the diskwith slide 56 whereby the fulcrum of the operating-lever may be variedto change the throw ofv the 'cross-head in accordance with the sca-le onthe disk.

24. In a machine of the character described the combination withvframework having a scale 7 3, a hat-holder and a cutter, of a crossheadhaving a point adapted to register with the scaleto Idetermine width ofcurl, an operating-lever pivoted to the cross-head, slides 51 and 56with which the operating-lever has sliding connection', said slide' 56serving as a variable fulcrum for the 'operating-lever and means foradjusting the throw of slide 56 and consequently'of the cross-head inaccordance with thescale.

25. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a reciprocating cross-head, of a cutter, a'cutterlarm towhich it is secured, a cutter-carrier vertically movable ,in thecross-head to which the cutter-arm is secured, and means forautomatically moving the hat laterally relatively to the cutter.

26. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a reciprocating cross-head, of a cutter, a spring bywhich it is carried, a cutter-arm to which the spring is attached and acutter-carrier vertically movable in the cross-head to which thecutter-arm is secured.

27. In a machine of the character described` the'combination with ahat-holder, a reciprocating cross-head and a bearing-rod, of a cutter, aspring by which it is carried, a cutter-arm to which the spring isattached, said cutter-arm and spring being slotted to permit thebearing-rod to pass therethrough and a cutter-carrier vertically movablein the cross-head to which the cutter-arm is secured.

28. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter,

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of a cross-head, an operating angle-lever pivoted thereto, slides 51 and56, blocks pivoted to said 'slides through which the operating-lever'slides freely, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum Jfor thelever, a shaft, a disk eccentrically adjustable thereon and a strap androd connecting said disk with slide 56, the parts being so combined andarranged that when the eccentric is adjusted in one direction saidslides will move upward simultaneously and when the disk is adj usted inthe opposite direction slide 56,. which is the fulcrum of theoperating-lever, will move downward when slide 51 is moving upward.

thereto, slides l and 56 with which the op-V erating-lever has slidingconnection, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum for the lever, ashaft having a crank by which slide 5l is operated and a diskeccentrically adjustable thereon and connections by which slide 56 isoperated, the parts being so combined and arranged that when the disk isadjusted in the direction of the crank, the slides will move upwardtogether thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever and thethrow of the cross-head to produce fuller quarters, and when the disk isadjusted in they opposite direction slide 56 will move downward as slide51 moves upward thereby varying the fulcrum of the operating-lever andthe throw of the cross-head to produce narrower quarters.

30. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter, of a cross-head, an operating-lever pivotedthereto, slides 5l and 56 with which the operating-lever has slidingconnection, said slide 56 serving as a variable fulcrum for the lever, ashaft, a disk carried thereby, means for adjusting said disk on theshaft and a strap and adjustable rod connecting said disk with slide 56,adjustment of said disk on theshaft acting to vary the fulcrum of theoperating-lever in use and consequently the throw of the cross-head,whereby the quarters of a curl may be made fuller or narrower withoutchange of Width at the sides and adjustment or' the connecting-rodacting to raise or lower the fulcrum of the operating-lever but with#out variation in use whereby the' sides of a curl may be made Wider ornarrower without change at the quarters.

31. In a machine of the character described the combination with ahat-holder and a cutter,

oi' a cross-head, an operating-lever pivoted Y thereto, slides 51 and 56with which the operating-lever has sliding connection, said slide 56serving as a variable ulcrum for the lever, ashaft having a crank andconnection by which slide 51 is operated and a disk eccentricallyadjustable thereon anda strap andadjustable connecting-rod by whichslide 56 is operated, whereby the fulcrum of the operating-lever may beadjusted to produce a curl having wider or narrower sides or wider ornarrower quarters or both sides and quarters may be variedsimultaneously.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature inpr'esence of two witnesses.

y .FRA-NKY C. GRAW.

Witnesses:

A. M; WoosTER, S. W. ATHERTON.

